Men's watches compared

Men's watches today are mostly between 38 and 44 millimetres in diameter. For an average wrist of around 17 to 18 centimetres, 39 to 42 millimetres looks balanced. Often more important than the diameter is the lug-to-lug distance: if the lugs extend beyond your wrist, the watch looks too big. Classic dress watches are smaller and slimmer, dive and pilot's watches larger.

Quartz watches are powered by a battery and are very accurate – typical deviations range from a few seconds a week to around 20 seconds a month. They are low-maintenance and affordable. Automatic watches run mechanically; a rotor winds the mainspring with every movement of your arm. They don't need a battery but are less accurate (a few seconds a day with simple movements) and stop after one to two days if not worn. Many people value exactly this mechanical heart, which you can watch through a display caseback.

Stainless steel (often 316L) is robust and kind to skin. Gold-plated or coated cases can wear at the edges over time. As for the crystal: acrylic scratches easily but can be polished; mineral glass is harder and standard on everyday watches; sapphire crystal is virtually scratch-proof but can shatter under hard impacts.

Water resistance is stated in bar, ATM or metres. 3 bar (30 m) only means protection against splashes and rain. 5 bar (50 m) copes with hand-washing and cold to lukewarm showers, and brief swimming only if the manufacturer allows it. From 10 bar (100 m) the watch is designed for swimming and snorkelling. The metre figure is a static test pressure – not a permitted diving depth.

Wipe your watch regularly with a soft cloth; you can occasionally clean stainless steel bracelets with lukewarm water and a soft toothbrush, provided the watch is sufficiently water-resistant. Leather straps don't like water or perfume. With quartz watches, have the battery changed by a watchmaker so the seals get checked. Scratches in mineral glass can't be polished out, whereas those in acrylic can.